Trip Recap: Alcatraz

I have lived in and around the San Francisco Bay Area for most of my life, yet had never set foot on Alcatraz.

Not that it mattered. Because this Federal Prison turned National Park, popular tourist attraction, and legendary local landmark has served as a backdrop or dramatic setting for numerous films and television shows.

My first cinematic visit to Alcatraz was, most likely, The Enforcer (1976), the third Dirty Harry adventure. This was where the so-called leftist agitators (and willing tools for a pair of sociopathic extortionists) held the mayor of San Francisco hostage.

As our boat approached the island, I admired the exterior location(s) used in The Enforcer. 46 years later, the guard tower Harry knocks a gunman out of is still standing, albeit it is now fenced off to keep visitors safe from potential harm.

Nineteen years would pass before I would make my second cinematic visit to Alcatraz with Murder in the First (1995). Kevin Bacon’s intense performance as a man destroyed by three years spent in solitary confinement is the only memorable thing about this otherwise bland melodrama.

A year or so later, I would suffer through Michael Bay’s bombastic and braindead action extravaganza The Rock (1996). So it goes.

It took some twenty years and change, but I finally sat down and watched Escape from Alcatraz (1979).

Directed by Don Siegel and starring Clint Eastwood, Escape from Alcatraz is a dramatization of the only successful attempt at what was believed to be impossible, escaping Alcatraz. It was a phyirric victory, though. The trio of escapees vanished without a trace. It is believed they were swept out to sea and drowned.

Escape from Alcatraz‘s dark and foreboding opening, which charts the night time arrival of escape leader Frank Morris (Eastwood) on the island, was the second thing that came to mind after I stepped onto the island. I hoofed it up to the prison. 

The three cells that housed the escapees contain replications of the fake heads used to fool guards into thinking the men were asleep. The tools and resources they used are also displayed.

Seeing the real life location makes the verisimilitude Siegel and Eastwood created in their film all the more chilling, unsettling, and admirable.

I also enjoyed walking around the recreation area and dining hall, using my phone to figure out where and how Escape from Alcatraz was shot.

After completing the audio tour, I browsed the museum shop. I stayed true to my cinematic fascination(s) and opted to purchase Alcatraz: The Ultimate Movie Book by Robert Lieber over a book about Robert Stroud, the infamous Birdman of Alcatraz. I’ll try and remember to get the latter some other time.

In 2007 or 2008, maybe, I cracked opened Rock Hard by Leon “Whitey” Thompson, an autobiography by a former inmate. In the book Thompson recounts an unpleasant encounter he had with a man that turned out to be Robert Stroud.

What little I know of Robert Stroud comes from a fragment of Birdman of Alcatraz (1962). I have no idea as to where, when, or precisely how much of the movie I actually saw. All I remember is Burt Lancaster feeding a bird with his mouth, while Telly Savalas bellyaches about being unable to do the same.

My final fictional visit to Alcatraz, before my first actual visit the other day, was watching the (very) short lived television series Alcatraz (2012).

As much fun as I had seeking out and identifying the locations used in The Enforcer and Escape from Alcatraz, I wished I could have spent a little more time wandering the island.

Looks like a return visit needs to be made.

Trip Recap: East Brother Island Light Station Bed & Breakfast

Any place that has a giant statue of an alligator, or maybe it’s a crocodile, sitting next to its parking lot is a place worth visiting.

And let me tell you, if the weather had been better (i.e. the interior of the mouth dry) I would most definitely have tried to haul my 55 year old backside into that gaping maw, just so my spouse could get a pic of me playacting as Henry Silva getting gulped down by the titular monster in Alligator (1980). I mean, come on… who wouldn’t want to do that?

[There was also a statue of a giant insect, some kind of bee, fly, or wasp looking thing, but I thought the giant crocogator was cooler, so that’s the pic you get. My blog, my rules.]

The East Brother Light Station Bed & Breakfast, located on a small island where the San Francisco Bay and the San Pablo Bay meet, is the perfect way to get away from it all, while still being able to see it all. Literally. Not the figurative literally, either.

From this (very) small island you can see the San Rafael Bridge, the Bay Bridge, San Francisco, the San Francisco Bay, the San Pablo Bay, and more. So much more.

Getting there was a bit of an adventure, though.

First you take the very last exit before the San Rafael Bridge. Then you drive down a somewhat worn road, which takes you past a shuttered military base.

Although you will want to continue straight when hit a fork in the road, you need to turn right and go up and over the hill. On the other side is the Point San Pablo Yacht Harbor. This is where you can park, those crocogator and bee-wasp-fly statues sit nearby.

You also might see some goats roaming around, but do not pet them. They eat poison oak. Unless you want to break out in an itchy rash. Whatever floats your boat, man.

Speaking of boats… the only way to get to the island is by boat. Departure is at four o’ clock, sharp. The ride to the island takes about ten or so minutes, weather permitting.

About that weather…

Prior to our arrival at Point San Pablo we got a call from the innkeepers. A storm was coming in. Getting to East Brother island would not be a problem. But leaving East Brother island the following day might be delayed by a few… hours? Maybe?

When I heard this my first thought was, “I’ve seen way too many horror movies that start this way…”

If that is too creepy for you, just know that is also how Glass Onion starts.

As does Agatha Christie’s And Then There Were None. I smiled when another guest at the Bed & Breakfast made that very same observation over dinner, but I am starting to get ahead of myself…

It’s just that, whenever I stay at a Bed & Breakfast, my mind gravitates to cozy mysteries and ghost stories. It’s how my brain works and I love it. East Brother Light Station makes an excellent setting for either.

In fact, it’s the perfect location for a murder mystery party.

Kind of like the one in Glass Onion

Once you are on the island, and you’ve had the chance to drop your bag(s) in your room, you get a tour. This doesn’t last long, since the island is just the slightest bit bigger than your average postage stamp.

After the tour, you get to wander the island while the innkeepers prepare champagne and hors d’oeuvres.

If you do not know who you are sharing the island with that night, chances are you will become very well acquainted by the time you have finished your champagne. At least our groups were.

There are five rooms available. Four in the Light Station itself, the fifth is located in the fog signal building. They don’t use that particular fog signal, but will sound it off for guests on occasion. If you think to ask. We didn’t. So it goes.

The signal that is used is located on the western side of the island, where it faces and sounds towards the bay. Zero need to worry about getting smacked in the face and ears by Inception style booms every 20 seconds. That does not happen.

We were served a four-course dinner at a communal table. Even if you had somehow managed to avoid being sociable with your fellow guests during champagne and hors d’oeuvres, good luck doing so here. You are just going to have to get to know them.

Our dinner started with a lentil soup, followed by stuffed mushrooms, then chicken fritters, and, for dessert, there was an apple and pear crisp with vanilla ice cream.

It was delightful. If you have any dietary restrictions (gluten free, dairy free, vegan, or vegetarian, to name a few) just inform the innkeepers when you book your room. They will do their best to accommodate you.

After dinner everyone retired to the parlor, where a lovely fire burned and we chatted the evening away.

If small talk and storytelling are not your thing, and you forgot to bring a book, no need to worry. There is a game room adjacent to the parlor, with a table loaded down with a variety of games and jigsaw puzzles to help pass the time.

Just know there are no televisions on the island. If sprawling across a bed and zoning out to whatever might be on the tube is how you want to spend the evening, this is not the destination for you. Might as well just stay home, you know?

One can only sit with strangers in a warm room on a cold night on a small island for so long. It is inevitable that a moment will come where one will want to climb into a warm bed, read for a little while, or snuggle with one’s significant other, before drifting off to sleep to the gentle moan of a fog signal being carried away on the softly howling wind.

What I woke up to was the sound of the wind smacking against the building, the rattle of rain striking the window, and the crashing of waves again the island.

After getting a cup coffee I stood at the window and watched the seagulls ride the storm winds that were tossing and churning the bay.

The boat we had come out in was, maybe, a twelve footer, maybe. There was no way would I want to try and return to shore in it with the turbulent water I was seeing.

I stuck my head outside, into the wind and rain, and wondered if we could just try and keep the room until… I don’t know, June?

Breakfast was served at eight. I’m sure there was a fancy name for it, but I cannot recall what it was at this time. What I can say is that it was every bit as delicious as the dinner had been.

Our original departure time was supposed to be eleven  o’ clock. Which meant we would have been on the island for about nineteen hours, give or take and weather permitting.

Weather was not permitting. But that was okay, because the innkeepers had plenty of colorful stories to tell. Some were personal, some were professional, and some were about the island.

There was also a gift shop filled with all kinds of goodies. We browsed several times, carefully choosing our souvenirs and picking some nifty Xmas gifts. We bought a lot of stuff.

The weather cleared and we were good to go. While we were gathering our things, the spouse and I talked about doing this again.

I don’t think there is a better recommendation than that, do you?.

If, like me, you have ever dreamt about spending the night in a lighthouse on a “secluded” island, then East Brother Light Station Bed & Breakfast lets you experience that very thing. Check it out.

[Note: This was in December of 2022]

Trip Recap: Hawaii

Our last “big” trip of 2022 was to Hawaii, to celebrate the 50th birthday of my spouse and her lifelong friends. Fun was had by all.

This was our second trip, but the friends first. That meant our first stop would be a return to Honolulu, Waikiki, and, of course, Pearl Harbor. Because one of our friends is a Disney fanatic, we also “had” to wander around the Aulani Resort and do some shopping.

The one new thing on Oahu (for all of us) was a visit to the Dole Plantation. While my spouse and friends rode the Pineapple Express, I paid a visit to the Pineapple Garden Maze.

Why? It sounded like a lot fun. It was.

Touted by Dole as the world’s largest maze, and declared as such by Guinness World Records in 2008, this is a fun way to kill some time. But not too much time.

The labyrinth is easy to navigate, with plenty of gaps for quick ingress or egress. No need to worry about getting lost for any troubling length of time. My spouse floated the idea this might have been to provide quick escape should a cloud burst start pouring water from the sky. Seems legit.

Hidden inside the maze are eight secret stations, which gives you a little something extra to do while walking the two or so miles of paths. A map is provided, detailing the layout of the maze and station locations, so finding them never ceases being a fun challenge. Something the parents of antsy children will no doubt appreciate.

The map comes with a grid of eight white squares. One for each station in the maze. A pencil is also provided, so you can stencil a small illustration on your card, allowing you to keep track of the stations you find.

I found them all, of course. I was also amused by how the train stencil’s poor alignment made it appear to be popping out of the hula girl’s back.

Prior to seeing that, my mind had been chanting “Come play with us Danny” while I wandered the maze. After seeing it, I couldn’t stop thinking about The Manitou. There are worse problems for a horror geek to have.

One of those “worse problems” was racking my brain to try and figure out what horror related subjects to pepper into this blog entry.

The first one that came to mind, and the one most frequently referenced by the entire group, was the cursed tiki idol from the Brady Bunch.

While that is more horror parody than actual horror story, the episode did conclude with a memorable appearance by horror icon Vincent Price. So it counts in my book, big time.

The second portion of our trip was an extended stay on the Big Island, aka Hawaii.

Our first night there is when we enjoyed the obligatory Lūʻau.

And it was during said Lūʻau, I think, that the shark god Kāmohoaliʻi was mentioned. This reminded me of Dan Simmons’s excellent 1995 novel Fires of Eden, which is set in and around Kona. Which just so happened to be where we were, at the time. Nice.

Note to self: If you are going to continue blogging these trip recaps, then take notes during the trip, and do some horror trivia research before you go. It will make writing these entries a whole lot easier.

Our first full day on Hawaii consisted of a drive across the island, for a volcano flyover in Hilo.

To prevent restlessness we made a stop at Mountain Thunder, where I got to meet Margie. She’s an orange tabby, which is rare. Most orange tabbies are male. She was very friendly. So much so that she accepted a belly rub.

A cat that enjoys a belly rub!?! The mind boggles.

But she didn’t like her toe beans being touched. That was a bridge too far for her.

When we went on our volcano flyover we were amused to see our helicopter was a replica of the one made famous by Magnum P.I. That was cute. I think the person checking us in mentioned it might have been borrowed by the new series production, but I cannot verify that at this time.

Second full day was shopping, followed by an evening snorkel with manta rays. That was an impressive sight. My getting bumped and caressed by a manta ray was something I had to add to my bucket list, just so I could cross it off. Amazing moment.

Third full day on Hawaii consisted of a visit to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, with a brief pitstop at Punalu’u Bake Shop. Both were awesome.

Fourth and final full day, birthday celebration! Also a prolonged visit to Beach 69. That’s not a sex joke, it is an actual place. Clear, cool water, sandy beach, plenty of shade. We could have spent the entire day there, but we were hoping to see some sea turtles. That did not pan out, but we enjoyed trying.

My third, and final, Hawaii horror connection was made during our flight back home, while I was listening to the soundtrack for Kolchak: The Night Stalker.

In 2003 I was lucky enough to acquire Richard Matheson’s Kolchak Scripts, a collection of the three scripts Matheson had written for Dan Curtis, Darren McGavin, and ABC.

Script #1: The Night Stalker (1972). What began as a “small” made-for-television horror movie turned into a history making ratings bonanza.

Script #2: The Night Strangler (1973). This sequel premiered to strong ratings and the network wanted more, fast. Only there were problems…

Script #3: The Night Killers. This Hawaii set entry could have served as a fitting close to a trilogy, only Darren McGavin did not want to work with Dan Curtis again, ever.

Richard Matheson wasn’t all that keen about doing a third film, either. After writing two Kolchak scripts in as many years, he felt drained. He asked William F. Nolan to help finish the script.

The Night Killers is a fun read. I think the movie would have been every bit as good as The Night Strangler and wish everyone could have mended fences, so The Night Killers could have served as a pilot for the series. Didn’t work out that way, though.

Recap ended with a an impromptu book review. So it goes.

[This trip was made in September 2022]

Trip Recap: Munich, Salzburg, and Berlin

Long before I met my best friend and spouse, she made a promise to each of her nephews. For an 18th birthday present she would take them anywhere in the world they wanted to go, within reason.

That’s a great deal.

Eldest Nephew’s 18th birthday coincided with the COVID-19 pandemic and the shutting down of the entire world. That was a bit of a raw deal.

But it’s “over” now (yeah, right) and the world is back up and stumbling along, doing what the world does best (i.e. wars, natural disasters, etc). Time to make good on her birthday promise.

Eldest Nephew wanted to go to Berlin, so that is where we went.

Our route was an interesting one. Eldest Nephew, being on the autism spectrum, had specific travel requirements (i.e. there was a particular plane he “had” to take, and a particular section in said particular plane he “needed” to ride in) that necessitated our landing in Frankfurt (the only airport where said particular plane landed in Germany) and took a train from there to Munich.

Eldest Nephew is fascinated with trains, planes, and buses, I am fascinated with movies. Unfortunately I was so focused on Demons and its Berlin locations, I did not think to check on what had been filmed in Munich. The Great Escape was filmed in nearby Perlacher Forest and areas around Bavaria. One memorable scene featured a cameo by the picturesque Neuschwanstein Castle, which we did visit.

Castle Neuschwanstein

I had never heard of Neuschwanstein (the “Fairy Tale” castle) but it turned out to be the most magical and memorable part of the first leg our trip. “Mad” King Ludwig II was definitely cut from the same cloth as William Randolph Hearst and Sarah Winchester. It was also easy to see why Walt Disney was inspired by the place. Neuschwanstein could have been designed by his imagineers.

Following a necessary, and heartbreaking, visit to the Dachau concentration camp, we opted for a visit to the BMW museum, as a kind of palate cleanser.

Here is where I must slap my horror movie geek forehead in shame. As stated earlier, I was so focused on looking up and finding the exteriors in Berlin that were used in Demons, I did not think to look up Munich. I was also distracted by our next destination, Salzburg, and its links to The Sound of Music.

Who produced Demons? Dario Argento. What other Argento project was filmed in Germany? Suspiria. Where? The BMW museum. What did I not get a picture of? The BMW museum.

I just might make another pilgrimage there, just to get a freaking picture of where Argento shot Suspiria.

I am not the biggest fan of The Sound of Music, but my spouse loves it. We both loved Salzburg, which is beautiful. We took a walking tour of the old town and visited several of the locations that were used in the film. Watching a portion of the movie after our visit, we had a chuckle over how Maria and the child left old town on their way into old town, just so the production could get a shot of the fortress in the background. Ah, the magic of movies.

Having exhausted ourselves, we took a relaxing train ride to Berlin, for the grand finale of our trip.

With all that is going on in the United States (i.e. January 6th, the rise of fascist authoritarianism, etc) visiting the historical scars left by both the Nazi regime and the Berlin Wall were sobering and humbling.

We could not visit everything, but we did manage to see a great many of the high and low points of Germany’s recent history. The restored Reichstag is a thing of beauty. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe serves as a somber admission of guilt by the German government. Just across the street and down the block from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, a sign marks the location of the Führerbunker, where the defeated Adolf Hitler died by suicide.

A small portion of the Berlin Wall’s “Death Strip” (the no man’s land between East and West Berlin where, if you got caught trying to escape, East German guards shot to kill) has been left intact.

Surviving section of the Berlin Wall “Death Strip”

There are metal plaques inlaid in the pavement and outdoor museum area. These mark where people escaped, or died trying. There are also plaques marking the paths of the escape tunnels that were dug under the Wall, as well as the Stasi (secret police) tunnel that was created to combat them.

Okay, enough of this heavy and unpleasant stuff. Time to lighten the mood. Let’s talk movies.

Did you know there is a Bud Spencer Museum in Berlin?

The Bud Spencer Museum

Do you even known who Bud Spencer is?

Bud Spencer was the “Americanized” stage name for Carlo Pedersoli, an Italian actor, former professional swimmer, and water polo player. He is arguably most famous for co-starring with Terence Hill (Mario Girotti) in a string of action-comedies and westerns. While relatively unknown in the United States, the duo were HUGE in Europe. Which is why there is a Bud Spencer Museum in Berlin.

Spencer passed away in 2016, but this museum dedicated to him opened in 2021. It has a small gift shop and serves a selection of Spencer’s favorite gelatos.

The museum itself is a small, but loving collection of memorabilia and personal mementos from the man’s storied life.  His many swimming metals and film awards are on display, as well as shooting scripts and some props.

For me the highlights were the buggy, race car, and motorcycle from Watch Out, We’re Mad. Not all were original, because many of the originals have been lost or destroyed.

There is also a diorama with statues of both Spencer and Hill honoring their roles in They Call Me Trinity (Lo Chiamavano Trinità…). You can take selfies or pose for pictures with them. Just don’t touch, of course.

Diorama at Bud Spencer Museum

It warmed by movie geek heart, and put a lump in my throat, to see just how many people were visiting the museum. It was doing brisk business the day of my visit. Although an unknown in the United States, Bud Spencer is obviously remembered and loved in Germany. It was a one of a kind thing to see and experience.

I also visited the Museum of Film and Television at Potsdamer Straße 2. This offers an impressive overview of the German film industry. Nosferatu might have been conspicuous in its absence, but there was plenty of honor and love given to films like Das Cabinet des Dr. CaligariM, and Metropolis, of course.

Marlene Dietrich got several rooms honoring her cinematic contributions, while Leni Riefenstahl was given a small room that focused on her film OlympiaTriumph of the Will was also conspicuous in its absence.

I let out an audible gasp when I entered into the contemporary section, as I did not expect to see a special effects prop boat from Werner Herzog’s Fitzcarraldo on display.

Fitzcarraldo prop

But what of Demons? The Dario Argento/Lamberto Bava joint that had been my primary reason for being excited about going to Germany and visiting Berlin?

I did not make it out to the Metropol itself, but I did get to the Heidelberger Platz U-Bahn station, where the film’s opening scene takes place.

My expectations were not high going in. Demons had been filmed sometime in 1984, or 85, and it is 2022. A lot changes in almost 40 years.

Wait, it has been almost 40 freaking years? No way can the movie be that old. Yet it is. Time waits for no one.

Heidelberger Platz

A lot might have changed in the past 40 years, but some things manage to stay the same. The Heidelberger Platz is just such a place. It does not look all that different from when Natasha Hovey fled Michele Soavi’s masked man, only to bump into him at the top of the escalator.

Once again the magic of movies and miracle of editing make a really short escalator seem longer in the film. It might take less time to walk up the stairs than to take the escalator. This might explain how Soavi’s masked man got ahead of Hovey. He just trotted up the stairs while she wasted time riding the escalator.

This long anticipated moment came at the very end of our trip to Munich, Salzburg, and Berlin. The time had come to return to Frankfurt and take that particular plane back to the United States.

We had a wonderful time and I hope to return at some point in the future, just to see the stuff we did not to get a chance to during this trip.

Like the Metropol…

[Trip made in July of 2022]